A greyhound in Finnish Lapland!
Lapland: the land of wide open spaces and pristine snow. We have been dreaming of discovering it for years...Beginning of 2025, we decided it was time to go!
The challenge was huge and many siblings were skeptical about our project. The experience was even greater than we had dreamed. First trip abroad, first flight in the hold of a plane, temperatures flirting with -30 degrees celcius... an adventure that we will remember for a very long time. So let's go, we'll tell you everything about it!
Summary
A dog friendly
destination?
Which equipment?
Our itinerary
Our accommodations
The first flight
from Vaika
Meals
Activities in Lapland
with a dog
Santa Claus and Vaika
Finland: a “Dog friendly” country?
Let's close the suspense and say it out loud: we encountered absolutely no problems during our trip with Vaika to Finnish Lapland.
Whether for accommodation, restaurants or activities, Vaika was welcome everywhere. We were always well received in public places and in particular restaurants. The staff were always very friendly towards Vaika, not hesitating to offer bowls of water and petting as much as they wanted.
We have never experienced negative behavior as we can unfortunately sometimes experience in France. Not a sideways look or derogatory remark. It is when traveling abroad that we realize that the French people like to complain a lot and sometimes are even less tolerant. But that’s another debate!
A special mention for the staff at Rovaniemi airport who were kind and welcoming from start to finish with Vaika and her HUGE Cage.
During our stay, we were even able to enter the famous museum dedicated to Sami culture in Inari. This was a first in a museum for Vaika!
Many activities are possible with a dog in winter in Lapland: hiking, cross-country skiing (there are trails specially dedicated to practicing sports with a dog), sledding pulled by a snowmobile, visiting a reindeer farm, visiting from Santa's village...
We enjoyed this first trip to Finland so much that we are already planning to return in the summer: the landscapes must be different but just as magnificent!
We are particularly interested in visiting the "Lakes Region".
What equipment for a short-haired dog?
in the polar circle?
The Greyhound is not known as a big fan of extreme temperatures! It is a breed of more than 8000 years old and that originates from Egypt. The climate of the Arctic Circle is therefore at the extreme opposite of its natural environment. Choosing Lapland as our first destination was a rather daring choice!
Like all short-haired breeds, Vaika must be protected from the cold. Add to this the very low body fat present in her body and you get a dog that is anything but made for the freezing climate. In short, we are not dealing with a Huskey or a Samoyed!
However, the Greyhound "heats up quickly" as soon as it is in action. This is why you should not cover him too much if he is running or doing activities.
Here is the equipment we had planned for Vaika to face the polar cold:
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A custom-made, full-length "ski" suit from the SofaDogwear brand. We found this suit to be of very good quality. It is fully lined in fleece and quite elegant. On the other hand, during the stay, we noticed that Vaika preferred to have her paws "out in the air".
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A fleece-lined coat, perfect for the cold and the icy wind.
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A “fleece” type sweater that we put under the coat.
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A hat ordered from Temu. It was not expensive to buy but turned out to be of poor quality. The ponpon left on the first day and it kept turning on its head...Useless purchase. We replaced it by purchasing a child's neck gaiter on site which was perfect for protecting his ears.
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Snow shoes purchased from Amazon in size XL. It is important that they fit your feet well and are the right size. Don't hesitate to try several, even if it means returning those that are not suitable. The shoes were really useful, even essential for hiking: apart from the fact that they protected against snow burns, they were also non-slip and prevented Vaika from slipping with each step.
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Harness. Vaika usually wears a martingale type collar. For hiking, the harness was very useful to easily hold her by the handle if necessary (danger or crossing of "unfriendly" dogs).
Our one-week itinerary in Lapland
We traveled for a week in early January 2025. It's a good time for winter activities: visiting a reindeer farm, watching the Northern Lights, and hiking in the snow. It's also the season when the polar night is the longest. So expect a few hours of sunshine a day and make the most of it.
January is also high season and prices are quite high. Whether it's for flight prices or accommodation, we recommend booking in advance. For example, we left it late to choose our Airbnb and there was very little choice left. Good accommodations go very quickly and prices can become stratospheric!
A week seemed to us to be enough time to enjoy the main activities and cover several sites. Of course, in this time, you will have to make choices and it will not be possible to visit the whole region! So it all depends on the time you have.
DAY 1: Arrival in Rovaniemi, pick up the car, drive to the accommodation
DAY 2: Riisitunturi National Park
DAY 3: Myllykoski Falls
DAY 4: Morning hike and drive to Inari
DAY 5: Walk to the Juutua River and SIIDA Museum (SAMI culture)
DAY 6: Meeting with the reindeer and snowmobiling
DAY 7: Yllas Ski Resort
DAY 8: Santa Claus village and return to Paris
We like freedom when we travel and that's the main reason why we rented a car. Another positive point: it's also on the road that we have nice surprises (meeting reindeer, landscapes...).
We rented our car through the AVIS agency and picked it up directly at Rovaniemi airport. All other rental companies are also there. It is best to compare prices in advance. We did not wait long at the airport counter because we were the first to arrive. However, we noticed that there was a very long queue at other companies. We were also surprised to see the number of French people present. Several flights from France had arrived at the same time: Lyon, Bordeaux, Paris.
A less pleasant anecdote: when we returned the vehicle, we were "told off" by the AVIS hostess who asked us if the dog was present in the car... She reproached us that a complete cleaning would be necessary to disinfect because several people can be allergic. The vehicle was nevertheless very clean and we told her that the greyhound is a hypoallergenic dog that does not shed hair. Unfortunately, nothing to do, we did not avoid a small altercation with her while explaining to her that the agent at the handover of the keys had indeed noted the presence of our dog. Subsequently, by checking on the AVIS website, we read that it is clearly indicated that dogs are accepted within the fleet. We therefore do not explain this unpleasant attitude...
It is good to note that snow tires are included in the rental. No need for a 4x4 to drive in Finland in winter because the roads are very well maintained (much better than in France). We opted for a Station Wagon to be comfortable with Vaika. Visibility is pretty good but of course you have to be vigilant and respect the speed limits. I loved the option of heated seats (my partner less!).
It is a unique experience to drive on these deserted roads, and to often find yourself alone in magical landscapes. At the bend in a path, you can even have the pleasant surprise of coming face to face with a reindeer.
Tip : Be careful to check your fuel gauge because gas stations are not always frequent. We actually had a good scare when we left Inari. It also gave us a great experience by finding ourselves in a gas station worthy of the best American horror films! 60s atmosphere, tavern with the gruff guys from the area, unsmiling landlady. Fun experience!
Our accommodations
Most accommodation in Lapland is very expensive. We all have in mind igloos with glass roofs to observe the Northern Lights in the warmth. You should know that you have to pay more than 500 euros per night for this type of accommodation (or even more in high season).
Since Vaika is fed on home-cooked food, choosing an "Airbnb" was the most convenient way to be able to cook and enjoy accommodation with more space than a hotel room.
There are accommodations on Airbnb for all budgets. We opted for houses with modern comforts: heating, running water and WIFI. You should know that many rustic accommodations are offered, without water or electricity, where you have to heat yourself by going to cut your own wood. This experience tempted us but we said to ourselves that it would perhaps be a little too many constraints to manage... especially in the middle of winter with a dog. I think we did well but the experience would have been nice.
Tip : Please note that cleaning services and bed linen/towels are generally not included. You should consider adding this option if you are travelling light.
Tip #2 : Always keep your keys to your accommodation with you because doors often close automatically from the inside. It's a shame to find yourself stuck outside at -30 degrees!
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ACCOMODATIONS: 1231 EUROS.
Kuussamo: 226€ for 2 nights.
A beautiful, cozy and warm log cabin with indoor sauna.
Inari : 631€ for 3 nights.
Our favorite! Located 20 minutes from Inari, on the edge of a frozen lake, a typical Finnish cottage, a haven of peace for those who want to live a real experience, close to nature with all modern comforts. Magnificent typical wood-heated sauna in a dedicated chalet. A garden of several hectares. A very exotic place far from the hustle and bustle of city life.
Kittilä: 374€ for 2 nights.
The smallest accommodation (studio type). There was only a double bed and no facilities for our dog (no extra blanket, mat or basket) even though the accommodation specified to accommodate dogs. The comfort was therefore more basic but counterbalanced by the extreme kindness of the owners. It's thanks to them that we were able to observe the Northern Lights!
Budget
This is for information purposes only and corresponds to 2025 prices.
Vaika's first flight:
a journey!
Before starting the story of this journey, I would like to point out that this is not about advertising or denigrating this or that airline. This is the story of our experience and I think it could be useful to other owners of large dogs wishing to travel by plane.
I ordered a cage several weeks in advance on the Air France Shopping website, wanting to ensure that it would meet IATA animal transport standards. I book the tickets with Transavia, a subsidiary of the Air France group, taking care to call them by telephone and explain the particularities of the XXL format cage. There is a direct flight from Orly. Everything is ok according to the operator. “Go.”
Three months later, our flight being scheduled at Orly at 7:30 a.m., we left Paris at 4 a.m. to ensure enough time for boarding procedures. Arriving at the Sky Priority counter (thanks to Flying Blue Gold status), we checked our luggage. We are charged, by the way, 24 euros for an excess of 2 kilos (traveling in winter requires significant clothing, whether for humans or for dogs!). No problem...we pay, the baggage leaves...
Suddenly, the hostess has doubts about the size of the cage. After waiting 30 minutes for the verification time, the ax falls. Transavia planes are "smaller" than regular airlines and the cage will not fit in the hold. I should point out that we are still talking about a Boeing 737...The staff suddenly becomes very unpleasant, accusing us of not having correctly checked the standards (I remind you that I had made the reservation by telephone, indicating all sizing elements...). We ask what we can do and what alternative to find. “There isn’t any.” Move around, you’re in the way.
So we find ourselves like two idiots with Vaika, his huge cage and no plan B. Determined not to dwell on this failure, I decided to go to the Air France counter. No matter what, we will leave! We dreamed of this vacation, the accommodation is booked, we are not going to stay in Paris and lament our fate!
At the Air France counter, we were very well received: a kind hostess confirmed to us that a direct flight leaves at 11:30 a.m. from Charles de Gaulle to Rovaniemi. There are also several daily flights in winter to this destination. This verifies that the size of the cage is correct: no problem on Air France planes. So head to CDG at full speed (after having waited 1 hour for the luggage which had already left on the plane...). I get over the slowness of operations and the lack of politeness of the Transavia ground staff at Orly...
When we arrive at CDG, we get a completely different experience. Check-in goes totally smoothly. I would like to highlight the professionalism of the Air France staff. 11:20 a.m.: we board the plane on time. Everything was finally "back to normal" except that...one hour after boarding, we still havn't taken off. A broken toilet problem prevents us from leaving (the flight still lasts 3h30 so, without toilets, it's a bit tricky...). In total, we will wait two hours on the plane. Vaika, in the hold. Then, the captain informed us that we unfortunately had to disembark and take another plane, as the technicians were unable to repair the problem. We therefore got out and returned to the terminal. Vaika has also disembarked from her hold...
We will finally board at 3:30 p.m. on another plane with another crew...In our misfortune, I would like to once again underline the kindness and goodwill of the Air France staff who came on several occasions to give us news of Vaika and to confirm her safe climb. on board. The staff even made a short video and gave him water.
We finally arrived at our destination in Rovaniemi at 7.30 pm. Vaika is already waiting for us in the airport when we disembark. She is very happy to see us and does not seem traumatized. No pee or poop in the cage. She is, on the other hand, very hungry and throws herself at her kibble (which she normally ignores).
All is well that ends well. The stay can begin.
Good to know: at Rovaniemi airport, there is a left-luggage office. Since we couldn't roam with the huge cage, we left it there (around 10 euros per day). You can contact them in advance by whatsapp (+358207086506).
What do you eat in Finland when you're a dog?
We chose home-cooked food for Vaika but she also has unlimited access to kibble. As a dog that eats a lot, it is complicated to carry several kilos of kibble in the suitcase! So we cooked her meals on site.
THE RACES
The supermarkets are very well stocked and you can find most products in France. The prices are quite similar. We found everything we needed in terms of meat. As for vegetables, we were surprised not to find canned goods easily (green beans, carrots) so we opted for fresh. Starchy foods are easy to find and potatoes are very popular!
Among the frequently consumed products we find:
- Sausages (Makkara): there is an impressive section of sausages! Vegetarians are not forgotten
-Fish like Herring
-Many red fruits, picked fruits (blueberries, cranberries, blackberries, etc.).
-Rieska Bread, typical Lapland bread made from barley flour
- Reindeer meat (in Lapland) in any form
Those who want to buy kibble on site will not be left out! There is a HUGE choice in the supermarket with compositions rivaling our Premium kibble! We also bought a packet that was very appreciated by Miss Vaika. Too bad the brand does not exist in France.
Another fact that struck me was the huge section of "fresh" food "sausages" in the freezer section. In France, the concept is starting to become fashionable with brands like Elmut or Dog Chef.
In Finland, there are dozens and dozens of references on offer!
Our activities in Lapland with a dog
Snowmobile sleigh ride and visit to a reindeer farm
It was one of the highlights of our stay.
Thanks to our Airbnb host Juuso, we were able to take part in a superb adventure with Vaika: being dragged by snowmobile and crossing a frozen lake to reach a reindeer farm!
The experience was...frosty! Indeed, at -30 degrees, with the icy wind, even with a suit, gloves and a helmet, we were FROZEN. A special mention to our host who very delicately wrapped Vaika in blankets and was more worried about her fate than about his Humans.
Our hosts came to pick us up directly at our Airbnb and we went to their small traditional reindeer farm to chat over a nice comforting tea about their activity. Our host was not stingy with details and we learned a lot about the Sami culture and the importance of reindeer breeding. She also completely fell for Vaika who could have been hired! Vaika was very curious about the reindeer and was probably wondering what these big hairy beasts were!
If you want to book, do not hesitate to contact them on WhatsApp: +358 405152658. They speak fluent English.
Hiking in Riisitunturi
We arrive at the parking lot and find a map with several possible routes. We decide to do the small 4km loop, the Risiin Rietas to get our legs going. It's our first hike in Lapland.
The trail is well marked and well packed: no need for snowshoes to walk it. We wind through huge white trees with strange shapes. The scenery is unreal.
Halfway, a shelter opens its doors to us: we meet a young couple who have stopped there to grill some sausages. We warm up and set off again.
End of the hike: we stop at the very nice little café which gradually fills up. We enjoy a good homemade pancake with berry jam and a hot drink. Vaika takes the opportunity to warm up by the fire. Very serene and pleasant atmosphere. Night is already falling.
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MYLLYKOSKI Falls
We head to the Oulanka Nature Park to go for a walk to the Myllykoski Falls, also called the Myllykoski Rapids.
The walk first takes us to the old mill with an outdoor fire place to grill sausages. The currents are very strong at this place and Vaika doesn't seem reassured to get too close, which is better for us: I can't see myself diving into the icy water to go and get her in case she has the good idea to take a dip!
There is a magical atmosphere that emanates from this timeless place. Immaculate snow, icy river, suspension bridges: we are truly in a different world.
On the way back, we stop for a well-deserved lunch break at the Oulanka refuge restaurant. Comforting homemade soups await us: there is something for everyone as is often the case in Finland with a nice place for vegetarians. We discover the beetroot soup: excellent and mild.
Vaika is the attraction of the restaurant, as is often the case: she receives hugs from the Spanish tourists passing through, which does not displease her after all this effort in the cold.
Please note: there are a lot of steps to go up and down on this trail. Vaika was only 10 months old at the time of the trip, so we had to carry her, which was no easy task with her 34 kilos!
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The SIIDA Museum and SAMI culture
This museum has the particularity of being very interactive with sound, images and objects.
We learn more about Sami culture and life in Lapland.
There is an indoor part and another outdoor part where they have recreated traditional habitats.
Vaika continues to surprise us and behaves perfectly well in the museum. Very well behaved, she is well received by the staff but also by the visitors who do not hesitate to call out to us and stroke Vaika.
We are proud of our Vaika and we tell ourselves that we did well to accustom her to many places and situations at a young age. She is comfortable.
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The JUTUUA River
We start at the parking lot near the suspension bridge. It takes about 15-20 minutes to walk to reach it.
The scenery here is still fantastic with a lively river and icy edges.
We continue the well-marked but somewhat monotonous walk.
We then decide to take off Vaika's suit and she sets off in a frantic race in the snow.
It's magical to see a greyhound running, even more so in this sumptuous setting.
We can only remain in admiration of her elegance and beauty. It is in these precious moments that we realize how lucky we are to have her with us: she brings us so much on a daily basis and the journey takes on a whole new dimension thanks to her.
Vaika meets Santa Claus!
We couldn't end our stay in Lapland without meeting Santa Claus!
Santa Claus Village is located not far from Rovaniemi airport. Unfortunately, we couldn't stay there for long: we had our flight in the late afternoon and the car decided to let us down on the morning of our departure from Kuusamo to Rovaniemi! Thanks to the help of our Airbnb hosts and Avis assistance, we were still able to start and have the famous encounter.
Santa was very friendly and had a little word for Vaika: as usual, she was the star and probably even started dreaming of being part of the reindeer team!
